7.1.16

Desperately Seeking Susan jacket (research)

The best part about researching this jacket is that it recently went to auction where it was heavily photographed!  According to Julien's Auctions of Beverly Hills it fetched $257,000 in the Icons and Idols auction on November 7 & 8, 2014.  You can also browse the auction's catalog online to see the original listing, expected to fetch $30,000 - $50,000.


And while I'm fairly confident the auction house and jacket listing are legit, I have serious concerns about their Material Girl dress listed in the same auction.  I get that the auction listing says the dress was from a rental house, altered further after her use, and then restored and documented.... but that still can't explain all of discrepancies.  


Moving on to the jacket details...
The jacket fabric itself looks like a dark metallic gold.  It isn't. It has a very subtle mosaic pattern in greens and blacks.  I'm not even going to waste my time looking for something like this.  The lapel is also problematic to replicate.  It's a swirly jacquard, the likes of which I have no expectation of ever finding. Best to aim for something with a comparable color scheme and pattern scale.

The pyramid is a textured gold lamé - I had some of this stuff in the late 80s, but I haven't seen it in decades. The auction listing refers to it as eyelash lamé, and you can still find a 'tinsel' lamé that can pass muster.  The pyramid is mounted on what looks to be red felt that has been pinked (zig-zagged) around the edges, then stitched onto the back of the jacket.  The pyramid details are machine-stitched with a zig-zag setting, and the beadwork is hand-sewn.  Surprisingly, this is the easiest part to replicate.

The lettering looks to be silkscreened, but there are options to work with there.  The trim around the banner looks like some kind of custom braid.  That's going to be a pain in the ass...






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